36 hours in the soul of Najd

Nejd      nejd, neyd]Pronunciation Key-noun

Najd or Nejd (literally “highland”, Arabic: نجد) is the central region of the Arabian Peninsula. It is also one of the main regions that comprise the modern state of Saudi Arabia and the location of the Saudi capital, Riyadh. Nejd also provided the setting for many of the great romances of classical Arabic poetry and later became the birthplace of the religious and political movement that gave rise to modern Saudi Arabia. 

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9:00 AM- I am very amused by the aesthetics of Saudi Arabia, which are very different from those of Jordan. I have never consciously thought of this- although of course, it makes a lot of sense. It is a relatively new society in the heart of Najd, untouched and undisturbed by other cultures and civilizations until a few decades back, and the Riyadhites have certainly developed a very different taste and style than their neighboring Levantines. The art nouveau-ness of their style, with extreme ornamentation against relatively simple backgrounds, has increased dramatically since we left Riyadh in 2003.
Interestingly enough, different aesthetics aside, I do believe that Saudi’s have a much more refined sense of aesthetics.

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4:00 PM- Simplicity still lies at the core, and political correctness is not much of a value, most definitely not for the feminists and the sacreligious. Not that I expected that to change in 4 years.

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6:00 PM-

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8:00 PM- The localization of everything is quite prevalent in the streets, alleys, and malls of Riyadh. I am especially fascinated with the Zein campaign, which has been flocking the streets of Amman for months, and which has taken very different dynamics in our neighboring country. I didn’t see a single woman in the ads, and in place of the suit-clad men I grew accustomed to seeing, the ads are filled with men in the traditional white tobe and red shmagh (hetta) of Saudi Arabia. In Jordan, the campaign doesn’t contain a single image of any sort of traditional dress, not even the shmagh, although arguably (very arguably), it is a prevalent part of visual traditional culture.
In more universal aspects, even the Apple brand has been localized with the use of an ornamental typeface in Arabic, and Kleenex produces local versions with Arabic ornaments and the “diwan” element.



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11:00 PM- Brands. What is it about them that transcends beyond their marketing purposes and leaves a permanent imprint on your life? They become, when you leave them behind only to rediscover them later, a part of the memories that dwell silently within the depths of your soul. I discover that I miss the brands I grew up with more than I miss the lands and skies of Saudi Arabia. I miss the taste of Al-Safi’s yoghurt, and the softness of Saudi Kleenex.

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2:00 PM- I spent a lot of time reading “A Brave New World”, a classic that I never got to read. Moose gave it to me a year ago and told me that it is the other side of Orwell’s dystopian “1984″. I think he gave it to me on the hopes that I will take a turn against my hedonistic ways, but while reading it, I couldn’t help but think that their Utopian system of life is actually very appealing. It’s a good thing I’m not a world dictator because I would have probably enforced a similar system :)

3:00 PM- I’m more aware than ever of a personal home-identity crisis. Riyadh is not home, it never really was, and it never really will be. Recent occurences have made me come to realize that Amman is not home either. 







  • http://7akifadi.com 7aki Fadi

    hey hey hey I am reading Brave new world right now :D . I am on page 39.

  • http://blog.sweetestmemories.com Qwaider قويدر

    Mabrook Roba, you are one of the few women to have actually driven a car in Ryadh!

    I can make out your lovely mother’s voice. Please Sallmi 3aliha.

    Sounds like it was a lot of fun. Awesome!

  • http://cafelulu.blogspot.com lulu

    Hey there Roba –
    Great documentation of your trip, and such wonderful commentary! As always, a story well-told (no, expertly-told).
    Ok one other thing I had to comment on: Al-mihna: Bint?!?!??!?!?!?!??!?! Can I emphasize my point any more with all those question and exclamation marks? I think not, so I’ll just leave it at that. It’s so easy for me to forget sometimes how much I take my current existence for granted, with all its freedoms and liberties, and it’s the little things like that that make me rethink my frame of reference.

  • http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brave_New_World_album Sid Vicious

    “Occupation: Girl” ?
    Apple in arabic: doesn’t look good. As stupid as this sounds, “tuffa7a” would’ve looked better.
    And you know what comes after the book, don’t you :)

  • http://unitedbloggersofarabia.com Dua’a

    I was born, raised and still living in Saudi Arabia but I’ve never seen Riyadh and I’m not sure I will. Every time someone I know goes there comes back cursing it, so I’m not encouraged to visit it at all. I’m from Jeddah btw.

  • Gus

    The picture you took from the plane is amazing!! oh, I really do love riyadh.

  • Loola

    Awesome post!!!! I love the picture of the steaming fajita. I never realized that all Chili’s have the same exact setup. :)

  • http://mindsonbytes.blogspot.com Isam

    nice photos … and the video was funny :) Streets in Jeddah and Riyadh are much worse than Amman contrary to public belief …

    and if you consider gas prices in KSA and Jordan … ur 1300 cc costs more than ur dads 5000 cc in gas … its really not fair :)

    as for the “Bent” thing in ur visa … i think it means Daughter and not girl …

    I HATE HATE HATE KSA … someone plz get me out of here :/

  • JO

    I am a Jordanian who lived in Cairo, Riyadh,and currently Amman, but home is Birmingham UK.

    I think I know exactly how you feel.

  • Mohammad

    hey , may i know what is the added value for this blog!!
    this is mohd and always read your blogs
    cheers

  • http://www.madnice.wordpress.com Sarah Mohamedi

    Wow, your occupation is ‘daughter’. Cool ;)

    Perhaps if/when you are married, your occupation will become ‘wife’? And/or ‘mother’ perhaps. I wonder if illegitimate children have ‘BINT HARAM’ stamped on their visa? My guess is…probably!

    Highly intriguing.

  • http://moeys.net Moey

    well, I like the arabised apple logo so much. and ew, zain ads are most disgusting there!

  • http://www.madeinjordan.wordpress.com Made in Jordan

    Four things:

    Although I was born in Riyadh, I never really knew what it is (we left it when I was 40 days old), this is was pretty informative. As for the occupation part; why am I not surprised? But hey, being a woman is truly a full-time job, I mean you have to deal with plenty more sexist bastards on a daily basis, no?

    I think your cat is beautiful.

    A Brave New World is an excellent read, may I recommend Future of an Illusion as your next read? Huxley derives some of his Hedonistic beliefs from Freud himself; the most important point being raised in the book, is how religion is purely a concept, or an illusion which people fabricated. And how he reaches the conclusion that humans seek God and view God more as a father-figure.

    Finally! somebody in Amman believes that Amman isn’t home (and isn’t shameful to admit it); it’s good to see more and more free spirits floating around in Jordan.

  • http://www.arabesquerhabsody.com/blog/ Ohoud

    Call me crazy, but Saudi is one of the top places on my list to visit including Japan and India. Not because of its religious value but rather because I’m so intrigued to see the lifestyle and how the society functions.

  • http://privateanonymous.blogspot.com/ Priv Anon

    I lived in Saudi Arabia too. I never considered Saudi to be home. I might have considered Amman home 7 years ago or so, but not anymore. I still feel like a foreigner every now and then. NYC was the only place where I felt like I truly belonged. I will never get over NYC I think.

  • Farah

    wow so your mode is human and your profession is a girl? do you get paid for that over there?
    sexist jerks

  • Husams

    The movie is not moving :( maybe a stupid proxy in work! Anyhow Roba really nice photos just as i expected! Think about making the world your home, everyone has an equal share of this universe as everyone else.